Original children's story set at Bower's Tower, Oke Aàre, Ibadan, Oyo (original work; not a transcription of any oral text)
Tolu was nine, and she had a notebook. Not an ordinary notebook: this one had a title on the front in her best handwriting, Things I Have Counted. Inside were the stairs in her school in Manchester (fifty-two), the ducks on the pond near Grandma's flat (eleven, or twelve if you counted the shy one), and the seats on the aeroplane to Lagos.
Now she was in Ibadan, in Oyo State, where her father had grown up, and she had a plan.
"Daddy," she said at breakfast, "how many brown roofs are there in Ibadan?"
Her father laughed so hard he nearly spilled his tea. "Nobody knows. Nobody has ever known."
"Then I will count them."
Her uncle Kunle put down his bread. "If you want to count roofs, you must go up. Today I will take you to Layipo."
Layipo, Uncle Kunle explained in the car, was the name people gave to the tall stone tower on Oke Aàre, the hill you could see from almost anywhere in the city. "The English built it in 1936 and called it Bower's Tower, after their first Resident here. We call it Layipo because of the stairs. You will see."
The hill was steep and the road twisted. At the top stood the tower, grey and square and taller than the trees. A man at the gate greeted them in Yoruba and Tolu answered, Ẹ káàárọ̀, the way Grandma had taught her, and he smiled and let them through.
Inside, the staircase went round and round and round, a tight spiral in the half dark. Tolu began to count the steps out of habit, then lost her place when a pigeon flew out past her ear. "Layipo!" said Uncle Kunle behind her. "It means something like going round and round. Now you understand the name."
Then they came out into the light.
Tolu stopped so suddenly that Uncle Kunle bumped into her. Below the tower, in every direction, as far as the hazy edge of the sky, lay roofs. Brown roofs. Rust-red roofs, chocolate roofs, roofs the colour of old pennies and wet earth, packed so close together they looked like one enormous crinkled blanket thrown over the hills.
She opened her notebook. She wrote 1. She looked up to find roof number two, and could not tell which one she had already counted.
"Uncle," she said in a small voice, "they are all the same colour."
"That is why we are famous," said Uncle Kunle. "A hundred years of iron sheets in a hundred years of rain. Every roof rusts the same honest brown."
Tolu tried a different way. She counted the roofs along one street, got to thirty-eight, and then the street disappeared behind a hill.
"There is Mapo Hall," Uncle Kunle said, pointing to a white building on its own hill. "And there, the tall one, is Cocoa House. Your great-grandfather's cocoa helped to pay for it. And over there, the green part, is the University, where your father learned to argue."
Tolu followed his finger from place to place. The roofs stopped being a number and started being a map: Grandma's area was there, near the market; the church with the loud choir was there; the road to Oyo town went away to the north.
She closed the notebook.
"You give up?" asked Uncle Kunle.
"No," said Tolu. "I am changing the title."
On the way down, going round and round, she crossed out Things I Have Counted and wrote underneath: Things I Have Seen. At the bottom of the list she added: Ibadan. All the brown roofs. Too many to count, so I looked at them instead.
What you can count to the end was never so very much. What you cannot, you must go and look at.
Moral: Some things are too big for a notebook. You get to know them by looking, by asking the people who live there, and by finding your own family's roof among them.
Original story for AllAboutAfrica. Bower's Tower really stands on Oke Aàre in Ibadan, and the city really is famous for its brown roofs. Ask your child: what have you seen that was too big to count?