Nigeria

Oyo

Pace Setter State — home of Ibadan and its brown roofs, the University of Ibadan, Cocoa House, the Alaafin of Oyo and the memory of the great Oyo Empire.

Oyo at a glance

“Pace Setter State” the slogan on Oyo number plates ("PACE SETTER STATE" per Wikipedia's registration-plate article; the state-nickname list hyphenates it) — confirm the current plate wording

Nigeria · 8.2°N 3.6°E

Capital
Ibadan
Formed
3 February 1976
Carved out of the old Western State, which was split into Oyo, Ogun and Ondo on 3 February 1976; Osun was carved out of Oyo in 1991
People
About 8 million (2022 projection)
The 2006 census counted 5,580,894 people in Oyo (1991: 3,452,720). The 2022 figure is the National Bureau of Statistics-style projection published on citypopulation.de and matched by Wikipedia, which ranks Oyo sixth most populous of the 36 states. Nigerian census figures are disputed.
Area
28,454 km²
Wikipedia ranks Oyo 14th of the 36 states by area.
Highest point
Oke Aàre (Aare's Hill), Ibadan — the hill seen from across the city (no sourced summit height); the state rises northward towards Oke-Ogun
Ibadan is a city of hills: Wikipedia gives it a range of about 150 m to 275 m above sea level with an average of about 230 m. Bower's Tower stands on Oke Aàre. No sourced summit height exists for the hills of northern Oyo, so none is given here.
Local government areas
33
Afijio, Akinyele, Atiba, Atisbo, Egbeda, Ibadan North, Ibadan North-East, Ibadan North-West, Ibadan South-East, Ibadan South-West, Ibarapa Central, Ibarapa East, Ibarapa North, Ido, Irepo, Iseyin, Itesiwaju, Iwajowa, Kajola, Lagelu, Ogbomosho North, Ogbomosho South, Ogo Oluwa, Olorunsogo, Oluyole, Ona Ara, Orelope, Ori Ire, Oyo East, Oyo West, Saki East, Saki West, Surulere.
Peoples
Yoruba — the great majority of the state, per Wikipedia, Ibadan Yoruba — the people of Ibadan and its eleven LGAs, Oyo Yoruba — around Oyo town (Ọ̀yọ́ Àtìbà), seat of the Alaafin, and Ogbomoso, seat of the Soun, Ibarapa — the three Ibarapa LGAs in the south-west around Igbo-Ora and Eruwa, Oke-Ogun — the northern and north-western LGAs around Saki, Iseyin, Kishi and Igboho
Languages you will hear
Yoruba — Standard Yoruba is based on the Oyo and Ibadan dialects (Wikipedia: Yoruba language), English (official), Nigerian Pidgin (everyday second tongue in the cities)
Neighbours
Kwara (north), Osun (south-east), Ogun (south), Republic of Benin (west)
Map data © OpenStreetMap contributorsOpen larger map

Did you know?

  • Ibadan began around 1829 as a war camp for Yoruba fighters from Oyo, Ife and Ijebu during the turmoil that followed the fall of Old Oyo. Wikipedia records that until 1970 it was the largest city in sub-Saharan Africa by surface area, and at about 3,080 km2 it is still Nigeria's largest city by land area. It is known for its sea of rusted brown roofs.Source: Wikipedia: Ibadan
  • The University of Ibadan, founded in 1948 as University College Ibadan under the University of London, is the oldest degree-awarding institution in Nigeria. Its alumni include Wole Soyinka and Chinua Achebe.Source: Wikipedia: University of Ibadan
  • Cocoa House in Dugbe, Ibadan, commissioned in July 1965, rises 105 m over 26 storeys. It was paid for from cocoa, rubber and timber earnings of the old Western State, is described as the first skyscraper in West Africa, and was Nigeria's tallest building from 1965 to 1979. It was gutted by fire on 9 January 1985 and reopened after renovation in 1992.Source: Wikipedia: Cocoa House
  • Mapo Hall, the neoclassical city hall on Mapo Hill, was commissioned in 1929 by Captain W. A. Ross, Resident of Oyo Province, and built by engineer Robert Jones; the foundation stone was laid in June 1925. Bower's Tower (Layipo), built in 1936 on Oke Aàre to commemorate Captain Robert Lister Bower, the first British Resident in Ibadan, gives a view over the whole city.Source: Wikipedia: Mapo Hall; Wikipedia: Layipo
  • The Alaafin ("owner of the palace") of Oyo once ruled the Oyo Empire, which stretched its power over much of Yorubaland and Dahomey from about 1300 until the fall of Oyo-Ile in the 1830s, famous for its cavalry. The present town of Oyo (Ọ̀yọ́ Àtìbà) was founded in the 1830s by Alaafin Atiba. Oba Abimbola Akeem Owoade was crowned the 46th Alaafin on 5 April 2025, succeeding Oba Lamidi Adeyemi III, who died on 22 April 2022.Source: Wikipedia: Oyo Empire; Wikipedia: Oyo, Oyo; Wikipedia: Abimbola Owoade; Vanguard (April 2025)
  • Standard written Yoruba, used in schools and Bibles across Yorubaland and the diaspora, is based on the Oyo and Ibadan dialects, with roots in Samuel Ajayi Crowther's 1850s grammar and Bible translation.Source: Wikipedia: Yoruba language

Sources: Wikipedia: Oyo State (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Ibadan (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Western State (Nigeria) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Vehicle registration plates of Nigeria (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: List of nicknames of Nigerian states (accessed 2026-10-04) · City Population: Oyo State (1991 and 2006 census, 2022 projection, LGAs) (accessed 2026-10-04) · OpenStreetMap Nominatim: Oyo State boundary (bbox and centroid) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: University of Ibadan (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Cocoa House (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Mapo Hall (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Layipo (Bower's Tower) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Oyo Empire (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Alaafin (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Abimbola Owoade (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Lamidi Adeyemi III (accessed 2026-10-04) · Vanguard: Oba Owoade crowned 46th Alaafin of Oyo (April 2025) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Oyo, Oyo (Ọ̀yọ́ Àtìbà) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Ogbomosho (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Bodija Market (accessed 2026-10-04) · Railway Gazette: Commercial services begin on Lagos–Ibadan standard gauge railway (June 2021) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Lagos–Kano Standard Gauge Railway (Lagos–Ibadan section) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Cocoa Research Institute of Nigeria (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: International Institute of Tropical Agriculture (accessed 2026-10-04) · Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems (2025): cocoa-producing states of south-west Nigeria (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Iseyin (Oke-Ogun farming) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Yoruba language (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wikipedia: Yoruba numerals (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wiktionary: ìyá (Yoruba, mother) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wiktionary: bàbá (Yoruba, father) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wiktionary: àbúrò (Yoruba, younger sibling) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Wiktionary: ọmọ (Yoruba, child) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Preply: Family members in Yoruba (community teaching source for ẹ̀gbọ́n) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Learn Yoruba with Eniola: Family members in Yorùbá (community teaching source) (accessed 2026-10-04) · Yoruba Folktales Revisited: Ìjàpá the tortoise (community source on the trickster figure) (accessed 2026-10-04). Figures are the latest we could verify; population is an estimate unless marked census.

Kids mode — family-friendly stories and media.

Geographic Time Machine

Real places, real footage · 9 items

Featured videos are hand-picked for pace and variety; the full approved list is under “More approved videos”.

Place write-ups

Place

Welcome to Oyo, Nigeria

Place intro

Oyo State lies in the south-west of Nigeria, inland from Lagos, where the forest of the coast thins into rolling savanna towards the north. Its capital is Ibadan, a city of hills and famous rust-brown roofs that began around 1829 as a war camp and grew so wide that, until 1970, it was the largest city in sub-Saharan Africa by surface area. The number plates call Oyo the Pace Setter State. It was created on 3 February 1976 from the old Western State and borders Kwara to the north, Osun to the south-east, Ogun to the south and the Republic of Benin to the west.

Climb Bower's Tower on Oke Aàre and the whole of Ibadan spreads out below you: Mapo Hall on its hill, the 26-storey Cocoa House at Dugbe, the green campus of the University of Ibadan, Nigeria's first university (1948), and the long sheds of Bodija Market, where lorries from the north unload yams, peppers and beans. An hour up the road is Oyo town, seat of the Alaafin, whose ancestors ruled the Oyo Empire from the lost city of Oyo-Ile, and beyond it Ogbomoso, the state's second city. North and west again is Oke-Ogun, the farming country of Saki, Iseyin and Igboho, and in the south-west the Ibarapa towns of Igbo-Ora and Eruwa.

About 8 million people live in Oyo (2022 projection), almost all of them Yoruba, speaking the Oyo and Ibadan dialects on which written Standard Yoruba is based. English is the official language and Nigerian Pidgin fills the gaps in the cities. For diaspora families this page gathers stories, language lessons and, when approved, real place media, so that a child abroad can know Oyo as a specific place with a tower to climb, a king in a palace, a skyscraper built from cocoa and a university their grandparents may have walked through, not just a name on a passport.

Virtual Classroom

Words and phrases to share · 2 items

Language

Counting 1–10 in Yoruba (Beginner)

Level: Beginner Audience: Family / all ages Geo: Nigeria → Oyo (Ibadan, Oyo town and across Yorubaland)

Yoruba counting is one of the most interesting number systems in the world: above ten it builds numbers by adding and subtracting from twenties. But every child starts with the first ten, and these are the standard cardinal forms recorded in the Wikipedia Yoruba numerals table. Remember the three tones: an acute mark (á) is high, a grave mark (à) is low, no mark is mid. Say them like music, not like English.

NumberYorubaNotes
1ọ̀kanFor counting objects one by one, ení is also used
2èjì
3ẹ̀taOpen ẹ
4ẹ̀rinOpen ẹ
5àrún
6ẹ̀fàOpen ẹ
7èje
8ẹ̀jọOpen ẹ and open ọ
9ẹ̀sánOpen ẹ
10ẹ̀wáOpen ẹ

[Audio: a relative counting from 1 to 10 slowly, then quickly — never a fake audio URL] [Image: ten cocoa pods, one for each number — placeholder only]

Hear the pattern

Notice that almost every number begins on a low tone (the grave mark). That gives Yoruba counting its steady downbeat: ọ̀kan, èjì, ẹ̀ta, ẹ̀rin, àrún. Then listen for the few high tones that break the rhythm: àrún, ẹ̀sán, ẹ̀wá all finish high, like a question. Children pick this up fastest by clapping once per number.

A note on "one"

Wikipedia records that up to 30 Yoruba keeps separate forms for counting things, inherited from counting cowrie shells, so you will hear ení for "one" when someone is counting objects out loud, and ọ̀kan when they are naming the number. Both are right. When you later meet méjì (two) or mẹ́ta (three) after a noun, as in ọmọ méjì, "two children", that is a third set, the forms used to count nouns. This module keeps to the cardinal forms; the others come at Intermediate level.

Practice in Oyo

Count the steps up Bower's Tower (you will lose your place; everyone does). Count brown roofs from the top (you will give up). Count the yams a trader puts in your bag at Bodija Market: that one you can finish, and the trader will be pleased to hear it in Yoruba.

Only the forms on the Wikipedia Yoruba numerals table are given. Tone marks follow that table; a relative's pronunciation wins.

Language

Yoruba Family Words (Beginner)

Level: Beginner Audience: Family / all ages Geo: Nigeria → Oyo (Ibadan, Oyo town, Ogbomoso and across Yorubaland)

Yoruba has roughly 50 million speakers, and the written standard taught in schools is based on the Oyo and Ibadan dialects, so the words below are exactly the ones a child will hear in Oyo State. Yoruba has three tones: high is marked with an acute accent (á), low with a grave accent (à), and mid is left unmarked. The dotted letters ẹ and ọ are open vowels (like the e in "bet" and the o in "hot"). Tone changes meaning, so the marks are kept here. For greetings (Ẹ káàárọ̀, Ẹ káàbọ̀) see the Lagos module; this one is about the people in the house.

YorubaEnglishNotes
ìyámotherAlso a respectful word for any older woman; Wiktionary
bàbáfatherAlso a respectful word for any older man; Wiktionary
ẹ̀gbọ́nelder siblingAny older brother or sister, and by extension an older cousin or friend; marks are community-attested (Preply, Learn Yoruba with Eniola)
àbúròyounger siblingAny younger brother or sister; Wiktionary
ọmọchildAlso "offspring"; ọmọdé means a young child; Wiktionary

[Audio: a relative saying each word slowly, then at home pace — never a fake audio URL] [Image: a family photo labelled with these five words — placeholder only]

Why there is no word for "brother" or "sister"

Yoruba does not sort siblings by boy and girl first. It sorts them by age. Your older sister and your older brother are both ẹ̀gbọ́n; your younger ones are both àbúrò. To say "elder sister" you add obìnrin (female): ẹ̀gbọ́n obìnrin. To say "younger brother" you add ọkùnrin (male): àbúrò ọkùnrin. Children in Oyo call older cousins, and even older family friends, ẹ̀gbọ́n out of respect. This is the same age-respect that puts ẹ in front of a greeting to an elder.

Put them in a sentence

  • Ìyá mi — my mother
  • Bàbá mi — my father
  • Ẹ̀gbọ́n mi — my older sibling
  • Àbúrò mi — my younger sibling
  • Ọmọ mi — my child (what a parent says of you)

The little word mi means "my" and follows the noun.

Practice tip

Draw a family tree with your child and label every person with one of the five words. Then ask an elder to say each one so you can hear the tones. For ẹ̀gbọ́n in particular, listen for the low start and the high finish; it is the word children most often say with flat tones.

Only forms attested on Wiktionary or widely used teaching sites are given. Spellings without tone marks are common in text messages; learn the marked forms first. A relative's pronunciation wins.

Nostalgia Library

Folklore, retold for families · 2 items

Folklore

Ìjàpá and the Drummers of Oyo Town

Original folktale-style story set near Oyo town (Ọ̀yọ́ Àtìbà), Oyo State. Ìjàpá the tortoise is a traditional Yoruba trickster figure; this plot is an original work and not a transcription of any published or oral tale.

Lesson: Shortcuts steal the joy of learning; the only way to play the drum is to practise the drum.

Long ago, when animals and people still shared the same roads, Ìjàpá the tortoise lived in a small farm village a short walk from Oyo town, where the Alaafin has his palace. Ìjàpá was clever. Everybody said so, and nobody said it more often than Ìjàpá himself. But he had one weakness that was bigger than his shell: he hated hard work, and he loved to be admired.

One dry-season evening, a sound came rolling over the fields from the direction of town. Gun-gun, gun-gun, gùn-gùn-gun. It was the drummers of Oyo, practising on the talking drums for a great feast. The drum could rise and fall like a voice, and the people of the village stopped their cooking to listen.

"When the feast comes," said the old farmer Baba Alábi, "the best drummer in all the villages will play before the Alaafin himself."

Ìjàpá's eyes grew round. To be admired by a whole town! "I shall be that drummer," he announced.

"You?" said the goat. "You have never held a drumstick."

"Details," said Ìjàpá.

The next morning he walked to town and found the drummers' compound. The master drummer, a tall quiet man called Àyàn, was teaching three boys the same beat over and over: gun-gun-gun, gun-gun-gun. For a whole hour. Ìjàpá yawned until his jaw clicked.

"Master Àyàn," he said, "I am a quick learner. Skip the boring part and teach me the beat that makes the Alaafin smile."

Àyàn did not look up. "There is no such beat. There is only the drum, the hand and the days. Come and sit with the boys."

Ìjàpá did not come and sit with the boys. He had a better idea.

He went home and dug up his own drum, an old one his grandfather had left behind, and he fed a parrot a handful of palm kernels and said, "Friend parrot, you can copy any sound. Sit inside my drum. When I tap the top, you make the sound of the master's drumming. The Alaafin will think it is me."

The parrot, who liked palm kernels very much, agreed.

On the day of the feast, the village drummers lined up in the great open space before the palace. The three boys played first: gun-gun-gun, gun-gun-gun, steady and true, and the crowd nodded. Then Ìjàpá waddled forward with his grandfather's drum, bowed very low, and tapped.

The sound that came out was beautiful. It rose and fell exactly like Àyàn's playing. The crowd gasped. The Alaafin leaned forward in his seat.

Then Ìjàpá, enjoying himself, tapped faster. And faster. And faster still. His hands flew. But the parrot inside could only copy what it had heard, and it had heard an evening practice, slow and careful. So the drum played slowly while Ìjàpá's hands beat like rain on a roof.

A child in the front row laughed first. Then everyone saw it: the hands and the sound did not match. The drum went gun... gun... gun while Ìjàpá's arms whirled like a windmill. In the middle of it the parrot got bored, poked its green head out of the top of the drum, and said in Àyàn's exact voice, "There is only the drum, the hand and the days."

The square roared. Ìjàpá pulled his head into his shell and did not come out until nightfall.

When he did, Àyàn was sitting beside him in the dark.

"The parrot only said what you say," muttered Ìjàpá.

"Then you already know the lesson. You simply did not want to live inside it." Àyàn stood up. "The boys practise at sunrise. The drum will still be there."

And that is why, when a drummer plays beautifully, nobody asks how long it took. They already know.

There is only the drum, the hand and the days.

Moral: Clever shortcuts cheat you most of all. The joy of the drum, or the book, or the bicycle, lives in the days you spent learning it.

Original story for AllAboutAfrica. Ìjàpá is the tortoise trickster of countless Yoruba tales; this adventure is a new one written for diaspora children. Ask your child: what have you got good at only by doing it again and again?

Folklore

Tolu Counts the Brown Roofs of Ibadan

Original children's story set at Bower's Tower, Oke Aàre, Ibadan, Oyo (original work; not a transcription of any oral text)

Lesson: Some things are too big to count; you understand them by looking, asking and belonging, not by finishing.

Tolu was nine, and she had a notebook. Not an ordinary notebook: this one had a title on the front in her best handwriting, Things I Have Counted. Inside were the stairs in her school in Manchester (fifty-two), the ducks on the pond near Grandma's flat (eleven, or twelve if you counted the shy one), and the seats on the aeroplane to Lagos.

Now she was in Ibadan, in Oyo State, where her father had grown up, and she had a plan.

"Daddy," she said at breakfast, "how many brown roofs are there in Ibadan?"

Her father laughed so hard he nearly spilled his tea. "Nobody knows. Nobody has ever known."

"Then I will count them."

Her uncle Kunle put down his bread. "If you want to count roofs, you must go up. Today I will take you to Layipo."

Layipo, Uncle Kunle explained in the car, was the name people gave to the tall stone tower on Oke Aàre, the hill you could see from almost anywhere in the city. "The English built it in 1936 and called it Bower's Tower, after their first Resident here. We call it Layipo because of the stairs. You will see."

The hill was steep and the road twisted. At the top stood the tower, grey and square and taller than the trees. A man at the gate greeted them in Yoruba and Tolu answered, Ẹ káàárọ̀, the way Grandma had taught her, and he smiled and let them through.

Inside, the staircase went round and round and round, a tight spiral in the half dark. Tolu began to count the steps out of habit, then lost her place when a pigeon flew out past her ear. "Layipo!" said Uncle Kunle behind her. "It means something like going round and round. Now you understand the name."

Then they came out into the light.

Tolu stopped so suddenly that Uncle Kunle bumped into her. Below the tower, in every direction, as far as the hazy edge of the sky, lay roofs. Brown roofs. Rust-red roofs, chocolate roofs, roofs the colour of old pennies and wet earth, packed so close together they looked like one enormous crinkled blanket thrown over the hills.

She opened her notebook. She wrote 1. She looked up to find roof number two, and could not tell which one she had already counted.

"Uncle," she said in a small voice, "they are all the same colour."

"That is why we are famous," said Uncle Kunle. "A hundred years of iron sheets in a hundred years of rain. Every roof rusts the same honest brown."

Tolu tried a different way. She counted the roofs along one street, got to thirty-eight, and then the street disappeared behind a hill.

"There is Mapo Hall," Uncle Kunle said, pointing to a white building on its own hill. "And there, the tall one, is Cocoa House. Your great-grandfather's cocoa helped to pay for it. And over there, the green part, is the University, where your father learned to argue."

Tolu followed his finger from place to place. The roofs stopped being a number and started being a map: Grandma's area was there, near the market; the church with the loud choir was there; the road to Oyo town went away to the north.

She closed the notebook.

"You give up?" asked Uncle Kunle.

"No," said Tolu. "I am changing the title."

On the way down, going round and round, she crossed out Things I Have Counted and wrote underneath: Things I Have Seen. At the bottom of the list she added: Ibadan. All the brown roofs. Too many to count, so I looked at them instead.

What you can count to the end was never so very much. What you cannot, you must go and look at.

Moral: Some things are too big for a notebook. You get to know them by looking, by asking the people who live there, and by finding your own family's roof among them.

Original story for AllAboutAfrica. Bower's Tower really stands on Oke Aàre in Ibadan, and the city really is famous for its brown roofs. Ask your child: what have you seen that was too big to count?

The Pulse

Life today, for parents

The Pulse is written for parents: 2 short notes on life in Oyo today.